2021 Baudouin

François and Manuela Chidaine are second-generation vignerons and run the most celebrated domaine in the appellation of Montlouis sur Loire. Starting with just four hectares of vines in 1989, the property has increased more than ten times since then to incorporate vineyards not only in Montlouis but also in Vouvray (whose wines are sold as Vin de France) and the Touraine. An early adopter of organic and biodynamic viticulture (1999), Chidaine now has a no-till policy. He nurtures his mainly old vines and always hand harvests in several passes to achieve the desired maturity. The animated grower focuses on Chenin Blanc, producing no less than 13 still cuvées from dry through to moelleux and two sparkling wines. The whites are always fermented with as little handling as possible to retain purity and delicacy. They are fermented using wild yeast in wood and take their time to finish before resting on lees for around a year. Chidaine does not desire the malolactic conversion but admits it is happening more frequently due to warmer seasons, leading to lower malic acid levels and higher pHs. The wines are generally impeccably balanced, textured and layered. Those from Vouvray: Les Argiles and Baudoin are from clay-rich soils giving plumper, rounder styles than Montlouis, whose clay-flint soils (both on chalky bedrock) and slightly cooler climate give greater textural tightness.

In 2021, around 50-60% of the crop was destroyed by frost, but the wines that were produced were more classic in style – with tension and line. There were fewer single vineyard wines due to the lack of crop: the Volagre cuvée brought five parcels together simply to fill the press as there was so little fruit.