2019 Cepparello

Paolo De Marchi’s decision to sell Isole e Olena was on every producer’s mind when I visited Chianti Classico recently. Never one to hold back his opinions, De Marchi quickly established himself as a leader in the appellation with a series of stunning wines and a relentless drive to build the reputation of his estate. I can still remember the first time I tasted the flagship Cepparello. I was probably in my mid-twenties, and yet the wine was so distinctive I have never forgotten it. While focus has always been on Sangiovese, De Marchi is one of the few producers in Tuscany who has also excelled with Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, as I have personally seen in tasting many older vintages here over the years. To say that Paolo De Marchi will be missed is a massive understatement, but words aren’t really adequate to express all he has achieved and contribute in a long, storied career that goes back to the mid-1970s.

Paolo De Marchi showed me a stellar set of wines this year. What else is new? De Marchi describes 2018 as a growing season with abundant rain in spring, late summer and during harvest that required quite a bit of selection, whereas 2019 was warmer, but with no spikes. That is certainly how the wines taste. Both the 2018 Chianti Classico and Cepparello are a bit lithe, while the 2019 editions show more flesh and radiance. Wines from international varieties are way out of fashion these days, but I would be remiss if I did not mention the supremely high level of the Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon at Isole e Olena.