2010 Masseto

This wine was tasted as part of a complete retrospective I co-hosted with Masseto winemaker Axel Heinz, singer/songwriter Martina McBride and her husband, producer John McBride that was auctioned off at the Nashville Wine Auction to fund cancer research and treatment.

First made in 1986 as Il Merlot dell’Ornellaia, Masseto has gone on to become one of the most highly sought-after wines in the world. Masseto emerges principally from three Merlot vineyards: ‘Masseto Alto, Masseto Centrale and Masseto Junior.’ The wine sees 3-4 weeks on the skins, followed by malolactic fermentation in barrel. The lots are aged separately for 12 months in 100% new oak, blended and then the wine is aged for another 12 months in wood. Earlier vintages saw shorter macerations and less time in oak, broadly speaking. Production is around 32,000 bottles. Readers who want to learn more about the history of Masseto might enjoy this article from some years back.

This wine was tasted as part of a an Ornellaia and Masseto Retrospective hosted by Vinous on December 5, 2016. The tasting spanned eight iconic, reference point vintages; 2010, 2007, 2006, 2004, 2001, 1998, 1997 and 1995. All of the wines were served from magnum. Most of the Ornellaia magnums were from the Archivio Storico collection of library wines. The bottles were purchased from the estate, ensuring perfect provenance.

This is a dazzling set of wines from Tenuta dell'Ornellaia. Winemaker Axel Heinz describes 2010 as the most atypical vintage he has ever seen. The harvest got off to a very late start, but ended in line with years such as 2004 and 2005. As an example, in 2010 Ornellaia started bringing in the Merlot on September 13, whereas in most years the entire Merlot crop is in the cellar by that date. The estate did more leaf pulling than normal in order to get the fruit ripe. Over the years, Ornellaia's wines from later harvests, even those of much lower overall quality, have aged exceptionally well. I expect that will be the case here as well. I also tasted the 2011s, from a diametrically opposite vintage, right after bottling. Those wines have the highest dry extracts ever seen at Ornellaia. It will be fascinating to see how the 2011s develop in the next year. Readers might want to see this video interview with Axel Heinz or my impressions of the 2010s, also on video.