1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb

My early look at the young 2001s of Colgin Cellars gave clear evidence that this vintage holds out great potential for North Coast red wine from Bordeaux varieties. Winemaker Mark Aubert describes 2001 as "one of the most concentrated vintages I've ever worked with. A cool August was followed by a slow warm-up from the beginning of September and then alternating cool and warm spells without extreme heat." The crop level was low and the tannins were sweet, said Aubert, who did extended macerations lasting as long as 50 days. But the '99s and '00s are strong years here too: among the wines I tasted in late winter were the first vintage of Ann Colgin's new Tychson Hill cabernet (from an east-facing hillside vineyard above St. Helena) and the inaugural release of her Cariad red wine, a Bordeaux blend from low-yielding vines on the hillier upper portion of Madrona Ranch, owned by David Abreu.

Winemaker Mark Aubert made more use of the lees to enrich the '98, and also racked less frequently than usual during the wine second year in barrel. He was happy enough with the results to continue this approach with the '99 and '00 vintages. The Herb Lamb wine is 100% cabernet, and is made in all new Taransaud barrels, which Aubert says have the effect of elevating pH. Indeed, this wine has typically relied more on its serious tannic backbone than on its acids for aging. Eager California cabernet fans who have been unable to latch onto any Colgin wine will be happy to hear that more wine will be available soon. Beginning with 1999, Ann Colgin has a new proprietary red blend from low-yielding hillside vines on Madrona Ranch, managed by David Abreu. The first vintage will be a blend of 55% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 5% cab franc and 5% petit verdot. And there will be a 2000 release from Colgin's new property on Tychson Hill, a steep, densely planted vineyard on the same hillside as Grace and Vineyard 29.