2006 Ca'Togni

This is a breathtaking set of wines from Philip, Birgitta and Lisa Togni. Philip Togni hardly needs an introduction to lovers of fine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Since his epic 1969 Cabernet Sauvignon at Chappellet, Togni has crafted a series of impeccable, breathtaking wines. It is amazing to consider that Togni's wines remain so reasonably priced when a seemingly endless number of new wineries with no track record seem to pop up every day with first releases well over $100 a bottle. The winery is very much a family affair, with Birgitta and, increasingly, Lisa Togni running the show. On an earlier visit this year I tasted the 1987, a wine that remains dazzling for its purity. From time to time Togni releases a small amount of wines from their library, usually at the 10th anniversary of an important vintage. I also tasted the 2008s, sleeper wines from an under-the-radar vintage that will thrill those who have the patience to cellar them.

"Two thousand eight was an early year all around," said Philip Togni. "We had some frost damage, which we've never seen before, but there was no shriveling of the grapes during the summer up here on Spring Mountain." The harvest began on September 5, or nearly three weeks earlier than in 2009. By the way, long-time fans of the Togni cabernet might want to look for next September's library release of the superb 2001, which is evolving at a snail's pace.