2008 Chardonnay
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Ric Forman admitted to me that he has intentionally been picking riper fruit and that the 15.1% alcohol of his 2007 cabernet is not extreme by today's standards. Still, Forman insists that he does very little in the way of acidification, and only at the outset, never later on. He's most likely to add acid in years when it's necessary to add water "so that the water doesn't dilute the wine's acidity." With all the focus on NapaValley cabernet, I suspect that a new generation of drinkers is unfamiliar with Forman's no-malo chardonnay, typically one of the most Chablis-like examples from the region and usually long-lived. Forman whole-cluster presses his chardonnay within an hour after bringing in the fruit, stirs the lees weekly until January (then once more in February), and ages the wine on its lees for seven months or so. He makes sure there are 35 parts per million of sulfur dioxide the moment the fermentation is done, then maintains the SO2 at that level. "The wine will last 100 years," he deadpanned.
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