1997 Insignia
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Winemaker Craig Williams, who told me in passing that he suddenly figured out how to make wine in 1991, has been spending time in Burgundy of late. Phelps recently purchased and leased more than 100 acres of land near Freestone, in the Sonoma Coast appellation, where the winery will begin planting chardonnay and possibly pinot noir this year. Phelps sold off in bulk a good bit of its '98 cabernet and merlot, and declassified its Backus fruit into the Napa bottling. The winery's Insignia bottling has been consistently excellent in recent years. Williams considers the '97 his best yet, a worthy successor to the '91, '94 and '95.
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Assuming you could let the fruit hang and not rush to pick, the 1997 vintage produced some amazing wines, reports winemaker Craig Williams. Despite, or perhaps because of, the high yields, the wines are rich in extract, says Williams. The large crop level, he feels, enabled growers to leave fruit on the vine without getting overripeness, thereby gaining concentration of color and flavor. Nineteen ninety-six was a more challenging year due to the cool, wet spring and widely varying maturity within grape clusters; to protect the quality of its Insignia bottling, Phelps bottled half as much wine as in previous years.
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