2007 Colle Gaio

Owner and winemaker Antonio Pulcini runs Colli di Catone from a Roman villa surrounded by vineyards planted on southwest-facing slopes of mineral-rich volcanic tufa soils. Beneath is a 2,000-year-old cellar, where, more like a wizard than a winemaker, Pulcini matures vintages of his rare and compelling Malvasia Puntinata Colle Gaio. Over 30 years ago Pulcini decided to tear up the current-day plantings of Trebbiano and Malvasia di Candia to instead focus on the ancient varieties of Malvasia del Lazio (or Malvasia Puntinata) and Grechetto (or Greco Bianco). The Colle Gaio is a single-vineyard expression of pure Malvasia Puntinata from a location that is considered the Grand Cru of the Castelli Romani hills. The crushed grapes spend three to four days on the skins prior to pressing, which is followed by a long fermentation that can last up to four months. The wine then refines on the lees in stainless steel tanks for three, four or even more years, until Pulcini feels it’s ready, at which point it’s bottled and cellared, often buried in sand for years or even decades. The results are some of the most uniquely thrilling, mature whites that you’re likely to find in Italy, but they’re not for everyone. While the 2014 and 2007 can easily appeal to a broader audience that enjoys white Burgundy or a musky, mature Vouvray, the 1994 displays all the lovely aromas you might find in an artisan's smokehouse, which I personally find to be quite enjoyable.