Pax Mahle told me that his own preference is for wines "that whisper rather than shout," and that he never approaches a vintage or its grapes with a model in mind. "Whatever they want to be, I let them," he told me. With Wind Gap, that typically means low-alcohol, low-pH wines made from cool sites and low-vigor soils, usually close to the coast or at high altitude-and in most cases open to cool coastal breezes. Mahle told me that since setting up shop in the Forestville winery he shares with Arnot-Roberts there has been no introduction of commercial yeasts, and that in the past he only inoculated his wines "three or four times."
From Focus on California's North Coast (May 2009) by Stephen Tanzer
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