Veyder-Malberg
Although I have followed the development of this estate for several years, my visit this summer was my first opportunity to visit the vineyards, walk through the cellars and speak with Peter Malberg about his vision for the Wachau. Like a number of others, he believes that this appellation has partially lost its way in pursuit of ripeness rather than origin. For some, he is a crazy guy off on his own trip, for others a prophet. Whether he is trying to turn back the clock or pursue his own dream, though, is a moot point. What is important is that he would like to see more wines telling the story of their site specificity rather than of overripe fruit, which is why his wines, even in warm vintages, all lie in the modest 12% to 13% alcohol range.However, with only about four hectares of vineyards, his is the smallest estate portrayed in this article, and only a small portion of that land is classical, well-known sites. The majority is up the Spitz valley towards Viessling, where the climate is cooler, the slopes quite steep and the soil rocky. While I am the last to criticize Knoll, Hirtzberger or Pichler, in terms of sheer drinkability Malberg's wines are some of the finest wines being produced in the region today. Given the minuscule production of barely 20,000 bottles in total, though, they come at a price. (www.malberg.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner Liebedich (89)
From Austria 2012 and 2011 (Dec 2013) by Joel B. Payne
2012 Gruner Veltliner Weissenkirchner Weitenberg
Release Price: $92
Color: Sparkling White
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2012 Riesling Bruck
Release Price: $61
Color: White
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2012 Gruner Veltliner Kreutles
Release Price: $30
Color: White
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2012 Gruner Veltliner Hochrain
Release Price: $58
Color: White
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