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Weingut Tegernseerhof

The site of the main medieval press house of the Benedictine monks of Bavaria’s Tegernsee, the Tegernseerhof has been in the Mittelbach family for five generations and comprises most of the prime sites in today’s Wachau that were deeded nearly a millennium ago to those monks. (The corresponding holdings in Krems-Stein include those of Lesehof Stagård, also highlighted in this report, who are headquartered in the ancient Tegernsee press house there.) Young Martin Mittelbach has been enjoying a lot of favorable attention in the Austrian press, and it’s impossible not to be impressed by his earnestness and acumen.

I have found the past couple of vintages I sampled clearly well made but undistinguished. Raised exclusively in tank, the Tegernseerhof wines frequently undergo malolactic transformation. I speculate that this estate’s characteristically understated wines might be losing significantly in the process of plaque filtration and bottling. Vintage 2013 appears to mark a qualitative uptick here that's not merely due to nature’s benefaction, and I’ll soon report favorably on some of his 2014s that I tasted with Mittelbach this September.

From 2013: A Great Vintage for Austrian Riesling and Grüner Veltliner (Nov 2015) by David Schildknecht

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2013 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg

Release Price: $37

Color: White

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