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Rainer Wess

“We picked the fruit we felt we had to pick in late September,” related Rainer Wess, but his 2015 harvest was not completed until the end of October. “Many of our Kremstal vines lost a couple of weeks’ evolution to the shock of hail,” he noted, “but in the final stretch, the corresponding delay might not have been a bad thing. Initially, I was afraid we were going to have another 2011 or 2012,” he continued, a bit unfairly comparing 2012 – from which he fielded a gorgeous collection – with the equally high-test and low-acid but also less elegant or animated wines of 2011. “Fortunately,” Wess concluded, “those fears were not realized.” The richness conveyed by a combination of sheer ripeness with (in the case of Grüner Veltliner) frequent influence of malolactic fermentation almost never comes at the expense of poise or refreshing primary juiciness. And the top Wess Rieslings this year put him in select company. In 2016, Wess was able to add further acreage in the Pfaffenberg, including Riesling near the apex of that site. He also acquired a very steep section of Kögl that he will probably have to replant. Some new 1,200-liter casks have been introduced; after they have been seasoned for another vintage or two, they will permit Wess’s expanded crop of Riesling to benefit from some time in wood, as do several of his top Grüner Veltliner. (For details concerning this estate, consult the introduction to my report on its 2013s and an update that accompanies my notes on its 2014s.)

From Austria’s 2015 Rieslings & Grüner Veltliners: Ripe & Ready (Feb 2017) by David Schildknecht

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2015 Grüner Veltliner Kremstal

Release Price: $20

Color: White

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