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Part-time vintner Olaf Schneider continues his streak of demonstrating the outstanding potential of Trarbach’s Ungsberg (also farmed by Böcking), potential that was no secret in the late 19th century but which was obscured for the better part of a century and which Riesling lovers have only very recently had renewed opportunities to savor. Despite being lower down in an otherwise woodsy stretch of the Kautenbach valley, the Ungsberg did not experience the peronospora and wild boar that afflicted the neighboring Hühnerberg (farmed by Müllen and Böcking). And Schneider’s largely old vines as well as his proclivity for absolutely minimal hedging or leaf removal saw his nascent Riesling grapes safely though the dry, scorching phase of summer 2016. Picking did not take place until the second half of October. Inexplicably, acid levels this year are the lowest that Schneider has experienced in his 11 vintages working with Ungsberg vines. But bear in mind that this is against a background of wines that consistently reflect attempts to retain bright acidity; the ratio of more efficacious tartaric to malic acid in 2016 is most definitely high; and the sensory impression left by these 2016s is far from deficient in liveliness or refreshment. (For more about the Ungsberg and about Olaf Schneider – who has recently moved all of his cellar operations across the Mosel into Trarbach, to be closer to his vines – consult the introduction to my coverage of his 2014s.)

From Mosel Riesling 2016 Part 1: From Extremes, Equilibrium (Jan 2018) by David Schildknecht

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2016 Riesling Bikiniblick

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2016 Riesling Trarbacher Ungsberg

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2016 Riesling Trarbacher Ungsberg Nativ

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2016 Riesling Trarbacher Ungsberg Kabinett

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2016 Riesling Bikiniblick

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Ungsberg

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Ungsberg Nativ

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Ungsberg Kabinett

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