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Weingut Mantlerhof

Sepp (i.e., Josef) Mantler uncannily matches style to site in his range of Grüner Veltliners from largely loess vineyards around Gedersdorf just east of Krems. He is also a talented practitioner with Riesling, and among Austria’s few champions of Roter Veltliner. Not only is Mantler a repository of fascinating historical details, his cellar is itself a historical treasure trove from which he unstintingly pulls amazing old bottles, favoring especially ones from vintages that were written off at the time or at least have long since been, and then prove to be, like their author, fascinatingly engaging and in rude good health. (So if my projections of ageworthiness for these wines strike you as suspiciously generous, rest assured that I offer them with more than the usual degree of confidence borne of experience.) When Mantler fully converted to a biodynamic regimen a decade ago, it seemed to those who had been following his viticultural procedures more of a confirmation than a conversion. But he remains a tireless experimenter both in his vines and his cellar.

Mantler reports that thanks to the poor flowering and consequently loose, sparse clusters, he didn’t have to deal with any botrytis in Grüner Veltliner, though I thought it proved the undoing of his Muskateller. Mantler’s lower-elevation vines dropped their foliage after an early October frost, and it is with musts from such ripeness-challenged locations that he elected to engage in selective calcium carbonate de-acidification to, as he put it, “bring the acidity down to the just bearable level for most people,” a procedure he had followed with the yet-higher and less-ripe acids of 2010. “Actually,” he added in a typical example of Mantler humor, “I’m surprised none of my customers have complained.” (In trying to catch up in haste on two vintages chez Mantler, he and I inadvertently neglected to open a bottle of his Grüner Veltliner from the Mosburgerin, which on the occasion of my previous visit had not yet been in condition to taste.)

From 2013: A Great Vintage for Austrian Riesling and Grüner Veltliner (Nov 2015) by David Schildknecht

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2013 Grüner Veltliner Weitgasse

Color: White

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