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Leitz

The swimming pool behind the new tasting room, adorned with a quaint statue and small fountain, attests to Johannes Leitz’s recent success. “What you see there is thanks to a buyer’s own brand that I do for the Scandinavian monopolies,” he said with a smile. Closer to his heart, though, are the adjacent kitchen where he stood grilling shrimp at the end of our tasting of the 2013s and, of course, the pinball machine that he keeps in the crush room for harvest. “Wine should not only be good,” he says laughingly, “but also a good time.” His affability and simple attire may distract the casual observer, but make no mistake: few estates in the Rheingau are as meticulous in their vineyard management as his. Stroll through the vertiginous Berg Schlossberg and the differences from one owner’s parcel to the next become readily apparent even to the untrained eye. Known in Germany for his impeccable dry and off-dry Rieslings, which are regularly among the finest produced in the Rheingau, Leitz also excels at Kabinetts and Spätleses. A bit of an iconoclast in his export marketing, his entry-level offerings sport humorous names like Eins-Zwei-Dry, Dragonstone and Magic Mountain. In his own eccentric way, he is not only a pinball wizard.

From 2013 Germany (Mar 2015) by Joel B. Payne

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2013 Rudesheimer Riesling Trocken

Color: White

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