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Johannishof

For the first time since 1984 (the year Johannes Eser served a brief retail apprenticeship with me) I did not taste their latest vintage with any of the Eser family, as our calendars simply wouldn’t align. Tasting through their 2016 collection as samples revealed the salutary effects of a vintage seemingly tailor-made to mitigate the two most significant problems that have sometimes affected Johannishof wines of recent years: excessive alcohol, and marginally overripe or rot-challenged fruit – especially from the Winkeler Jesuitengarten, whose challenges in the 21st century I have frequently discussed in these reports. In 2016, the legally dry Johannishof wines – even the Rüdesheimer – weigh-in largely well below 12% alcohol. Nor was rot an issue (the noble sort, too, was virtually absent) although the vintage’s Winkeler Jesuitengarten was still the collection’s low point. Johannes Eser professed surprise not just at the quality achieved in the face of such challenging spring and early summer weather but also at the quantity harvested, which proved little short of long-term norms. (For background on this estate, consult the introductions to my reports on its vintage 2014 and 2015 collections. Information on the sites farmed as well as on recent labeling changes will be found sprinkled throughout those earlier tasting notes.)

From Rheingau and Mittelrhein Riesling 2016: Stress Test (Jul 2018) by David Schildknecht

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2016 Riesling Mineral trocken

Release Price: $26

Color: White

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