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Weingut Johanneshof Reinisch

When Johannes Rheinisch received me in early February, there was still snow scattered in the vineyards and the roads were icy, even in Tattendorf, a small village in the southeastern corner of the appellation close to Lake Neusiedl. The vineyards here are a touch lower in altitude, the brown, alluvial soils a bit denser, and the climate usually warmer than the heart of the Thermenregion. Not surprisingly, two-thirds of the roughly 200,000 bottles that the three Reinisch brothers produce annually on their 40 hectares of vineyards are red, with Pinot Noir and St. Laurent each accounting for about a quarter of the total volume. But they also produce Rotgipfler and Zierfandler from plots in nearby Gumpoldskirchen. Since 2013, all are certified organic.

Johannes, who will turn 40 this year, is the head of the family and spends most of his time in the cellar. His brothers Christian and Michel are respectively six and eight years younger, "but we make sure that each and every one of us can do everything,” says Christian. That even includes running their bistro. Located only 30 kilometers from Vienna, it is a popular weekend escape for people from the capital.

Beyond the wines reviewed below, I also tasted a number of 2014s from barrel. While Johannes Rheinisch likes the cool vibrancy of the 2014 vintage, it was another short crop, “25% below our statistical average,” he said with a twitch. For the moment, though, readers should pay more attention to the 2013s now coming onto to the market. Given the sheer quality of the whites, I look forward to seeing if the reds from the top sites have the same pedigree.

From Austria 2013 (Sep 2015) by Joel B. Payne

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2013 Chardonnay Lores

Color: White

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