Weingut Johann Schwarz

I remember my first visit to Johann Schwarz's butcher shop some 20-odd years ago. Noble late-harvested wines stood in large glass flasks amid sides of beef and a leg of lamb. Beyond those few bottles that he made for himself, most of the crop from his 12 hectares of vineyards was purchased by Alois Kracher until the two decided in 1999, with the help of Manfred Krankl from Sina Qua Non, to vinify the grapes separately and bottle them with their own rather unusual label. The black W at the middle of SchWarz, which means black in German, is about all that is visible on the red background. The zweigelt that they make is equally singular. In any case, it is certainly one of the best in the country. (www.thebutcher.at) Also recommended: 2011 Kuma Rod (86).