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Weingut Franz Hirtzberger

As Franz Hirtzberger Junior's younger brother Mathias has now returned to the estate, the family is engaged in starting a second winery in Wösendorf that will be called Weinhof Meisterei. Mathias, who was born in 1986, studied banking after earning his enological degree, but feels more at home in the world of wine than of financial investments. Having inherited vineyards through both his mother and his relative Anton Hirtzberger, he has already purchased, with the help of his father, the house in which the Restaurant Florianhof is currently located and he plans to crush his first vintage there this fall. In the beginning, the two estates will work together, but they plan a clear split a few years down the road.

While I have concentrated on the 2013s and various older vintages in my notes, I did taste a few 2014s from cask with the family during my visit in February. While the '14s appear to be much better than their reputation, quality came at a price. Not only is volume down, but only 20% of the harvest will be marketed as Smaragd, compared to as much as two-thirds in a better year.

Although this estate is based in Spitz at the cooler, western end of the Wachau, Hirtzberger nonetheless tends to prune for somewhat larger crops so that the grapes do not ripen too quickly, which allows him to harvest as late as possible, often well into November. It is not about alcohol but phenolic ripeness. Without any doubt, the Hirtzberger Smaragds are rich, dense and opulent. Although they might appear to be too much of a good thing in their youth, they age extremely well, as all of my ten-years-after tastings have proven. Anyone who drinks these wines in their youth is throwing money out the window.

From Austria 2013 (Sep 2015) by Joel B. Payne

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2013 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Rotes Tor

Release Price: $36

Color: White

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