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Weingut Emmerich Knoll

Knoll harvested most of his riesling and part of his gruner veltliner Smaragd after the frost. Virtually all of these Smaragd wines were aging in cask when I visited in June. "To be honest," he explains, "we had quite a lot of grapes hanging, and we intentionally didn't sacrifice much crop so as not to promote even faster ripening. But in fact there came a point when the must weight stopped moving on account of the heat. In the end we had to wait a relatively long time to harvest after all. " Knoll eschewed significant skin contact this year. "Whether that was right or not will only be proven with time, but out of one's experience and intuitions one has to determine how best to deal with the character of a given vintage. And I was concerned that the 2003s would be heavy; I hoped to tap their potential for elegance, not just strength. " Many of the successful wines here this year might be compared with watercolors:they possess clarity, nuance and complexity, if not the sharp edges and gripping concentration sometimes exhibited at this address. Knoll suggests that "they shouldn't be judged by the first sip but by the third glass. " (Vin Divino) Also recommended: 2003 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, 2003 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles, 2003 Riesling Federspiel, 2003 Riesling Federspiel Loibenberg, 2003 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg, 2003 Gelber Traminer Smaragd.

From Austria's Surprising 2003s (Nov 2004) by David Schildknecht

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2003 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kreutles

Release Price: $35

Color: White

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