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Weingut Emmerich Knoll

There was still a whiff of paint in the air when I visited this estate in early February. Emmerich Knoll and his two sons have just finished building a new winery next to their old one, replete with modern offices and a new tasting room, where we sampled the current vintage. “In style, the 2013s show a combination of the balance and depth of the 2012s and the brightness of the 2010s,” Knoll Sr. told me. In particular, the Rieslings have an almost austere quality. “As we did not want to de-acidify them,” he added, “we left them for a long time on their lees to provide them with more richness.” For Grüner Veltliner, the lower alcohol levels and more vibrant acidity make 2013 an excellent year.

In 2013, Knoll's son, also named Emmerich, became the chairman of Vinea Wachau, taking over from Franz Hirtzberger. While his humble father, one of grand old men of the Austrian wine scene, is still a formidable presence at the estate, Knoll Junior is slowly becoming the new face of the winery. Although there are no clearcut roles here, he does admit to spending more time in the cellars, especially as his brother August prefers being in the vineyards.

Although they have some stainless steel tanks, most of the winemaking is as traditional as the label, taking place in large oak casks. There is also a touch of botrytis in most of their family's top Rieslings, which some consumers may find a bit old-fashioned but all of their long-time fans recognize immediately.

From Austria 2013 (Sep 2015) by Joel B. Payne

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2013 Loibener Riesling Federspiel

Release Price: $30

Color: White

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