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Weingut Bernhard Huber

Over the past decade, few if any other producers in Germany have been able to match Bernhard Huber’s consistency in making world-class Pinot Noir. As Burgundy’s signature grape was brought to Malterdingen, where his winery is located, almost a thousand years ago by the same monks who planted vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, this should come as no surprise. They found similar weather patterns, soils and expositions in both places. Today, Huber offers four grand crus that often compete with each other for top honors in any given vintage and ripen well, as those lucky enough to have his 1990s in their cellar can readily attest. Since then, many of the country’s younger winemaking talents have done their apprenticeships in his cellars. Even his "simple" Spätburgunder is often better than some of his neighbors’ finest bottlings. His two best 2012s were again among Germany’s top five examples, successfully combining the focus, purity and elegance of the 2010s with the voluptuous richness of the 2011s.

Beyond Pinot Noir, which is now almost two thirds of his total production, he also produces late bottled Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay that are often outstanding when finally released – and even his Muskateller and Müller-Thurgau, the latter of which he sells only in magnums, have an almost cult following. Add to this the fact that he consistently made some of the finest sparkling wines in the country - I rated his 2008 Blanc de Blanc with 91 points – and you have a universal genius. Sadly, he died prematurely on the 11th of June 2014 at the age of only 55 from cancer. His son, Julian, who was in his final year of studies at Geisenheim, the Davis of Germany, returned in 2013 be present for his last vintage and is now responsible for the future of the estate. He has large footsteps to fill, but has already quietly begun to display the same humble energy and vision that characterized his father.

From 2013 Germany (Mar 2015) by Joel B. Payne

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2013 Müller-Thurgau

Color: White

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