A. Christmann

Since the 2009 vintage, all of the wines at this estate are of certified biodynamic provenance. Although they are less charming in their youth than they once were, Steffen Christmann believes that they will age even better, and will only come into their prime three or four years after the vintage. In particular, the Idig is a long-distance runner and regularly stands out in my ten-years-after tastings. There is some controversy, however, about the style of the 2012 vintage, which has almost the flavors of "natural" wine. Some of my colleagues have bestowed praise on the new range, while others have criticized it. For the moment I reserve judgment, but I must admit that Christmann's rieslings do not have the charm and spontaneity that they once did at this stage in their development. Surprisingly, as he is the current president of Germany's VDP, Steffen Christmann prefers to maintain a low profile. He prefers allowing his wines to speak rather than basking in the limelight himself. They now have an important story to tell. (www.weingut-christmann.de) Also recommended: 2012 Gimmeldinger Biengarten Weissburgunder Trocken (87), 2012 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken (85), 2012 Königsbacher Olberg Riesling Trocken (86), 2012 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Gewachs (87), 2012 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewachs (87), 2010 Spatburgunder SC (86), 2010 Konigsbacher Olberg Spatburgunder (87), 2010 Konigsbacher Idig Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs (88). Other wines tasted: 2012 Gimmeldinger Weissburgunder, 2012 Riesling Trocken, 2012 Konigsbacher Riesling Trocken, 2012 Konigsbacher Kapellenberg Riesling Trocken.