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Weinberghof Fritsch

Although Karl Fritsch makes not only what are arguably the best Rieslings in the Wagram as well as more than respectable Zweigelt, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, we concentrated on Grüner Veltliner this year. In fact, we sat together with Franz Leth and Bernhard Ott in the latter’s tasting room in order to compare the 2013 Grüner Veltliners of the region's three leading estates. Fritsch drew parallels to the 2010 vintage, which he believes is “understood here, but less so abroad.” Although he likes the style of 2013, the vintage did leave a bitter taste in his mouth. “It was the smallest volume that I’ve ever harvested at the estate. We barely managed 25 hectoliters per hectare.”

With his wild mane, moustache and pointed beard, Fritsch would look at home on the streets of Berkeley. Born in 1968 when things were bubbling on the West Coast, he was one of the first ambassadors of biodynamic agriculture in the country and remains today perhaps the most zealous. Having begun in 2006 under the tutelage of Andrew Lorand, he now produces 130,000 biodynamically certified bottles a year from his 25 hectares of vineyards. In addition, he also buys organic grapes for a second label called Windspiel, almost 60% of which is exported.

As Fritsch also sees similarities to 2006, he brought two bottles from that vintage to show how they have developed, including a Riesling Reserve from the Kapuzinerberg in neighboring Kremstal. Their quality and youth bode well for the evolution of the 2013s.

From Austria 2013 (Sep 2015) by Joel B. Payne

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2014 Grüner Veltliner Steinberg

Release Price: $18

Color: White

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