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Van Volxem

Roman Niewodniczanski continues to pursue organic viticultural methods of draconian rigor and meticulousness, including both the preservation of his domain's many ancient vines and terraces and the maintenance of genetic diversity and sparse yields in replanted portions. Without closing his mind to experimentation, he preserves the integrity of a winemaking style with traditional roots that caters neither to the "Trocken-only" modern German consumer nor to those whose expectation of Saar riesling runs to high acid and high residual sugar. Niewodniczanski intends to persevere in his fidelity to his diverse microclimates ("my capital"), each with historical and gustatory distinction, labeling the wines with the traditional names of their parcels, most of these no longer in official use since 1971. In this last endeavor, he is butting heads with the VDP growers' association, whose members are enjoined to reduce the number of site names used on labels to well below the number enshrined in the 1971 German Wine Law. As an example of his fanaticism, Niewo (as he likes to be known) has selected a now little-known but once highly rated parcel exclusively for sparkling riesling, but the inaugural wine will only be disgorged after five years on the lees. The impressive 2003s here, harvested well into November, display phenolic intensity wrapped in often creamy fruit, the ripeness of the vintage, and depth of flavor from their long stay on the lees, while retaining lift and clarity. (Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2003 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling, 2003 Scharzhofberger Riesling.

From Germany 2003: Extreme Riesling (Jan 2005) by David Schildknecht

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2003 Wiltinger Braunfels Vols Riesling Grosses Gewachs

Color: White

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