Van Volxem
Van Volxem today is an exceptional estate. It was bought in 1999 by Roman Niewodniczanski, a scion of a brewery family, with the full intention of making it a center of excellence that would elevate the Saar region to its former fame. I doubt that even he could have predicted what a renaissance the region has undergone since or what an essential part he would play in it. Sure, there have always been small key estates in the region, but they lacked the financial muscle, confidence and clarity to communicate in the same way. While Niewodniczanski is not only absolutely single-minded and determined, he also is exceptionally articulate and driven. His ideas are based on profound and well-researched knowledge of the region’s history, and he has spent a fortune on buying and restoring historic vineyards. Today, the estate extends over 85 hectares in key Saar sites. In short, he is a driving force. Late 2021 saw the departure of the long-standing and talented cellarmaster Dominik Völk who had made the wines since 2004 and was also in charge of the vineyards. The new cellarmaster, Mosel native Christoph Friedrich, comes with an admirable pedigree: he was cellarmaster at Schlossgut Diel in the Nahe for the past 20 years after graduating from Geisenheim and completing stints at Australia’s CSIRO, the Pfalz and the Mâconnais. Arriving in February 2022 meant he was a caretaker for the 2021 wines. At his side is Lukas Becker, a new viticulturist who came in just as the Fair’n Green certification was achieved in 2022. Friedrich plans to fine-tune. This means even more sorting, longer lees aging and later release of the wines – even the village-level wines will now be released after September of the following year. His future projects include refining the offerings of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – grapes that have hitherto only been used for Sekt – and there is Sekt itself. Friedrich’s experience at Diel comes in very handy here. Friedrich noted that he was in the process of “questioning everything again, not in critical but in a constructive fashion.” In reviewing the 2021 vintage, he observed that “nature rewarded good work in the vineyard and penalized every tiny mistake.” He noted that stringent selection was necessary and that the 2021s are great for laying down. The 2021 wines beautifully reflect the site character, with much personality. The dry wines have a phenolic pithiness that sits very well with the muscle and salty, stony depth.
From 2021 Mosel and Saar – Tantalizing, Tingling, Thrilling (Jun 2023) by Anne Krebiehl MW
2021 Riesling Saar Late Release
Color: White
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2021 Riesling Alte Reben
Color: White
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2021 Riesling Wiltinger
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2021 Riesling im Atrium
Color: White
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2021 Riesling Kanzemer
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2021 Riesling Ockfener
Color: White
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2021 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Grosses Gewächs
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2021 Riesling Saarburger Schonfels Grosses Gewächs
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2021 Riesling Wiltinger Volz Grosses Gewächs
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2021 Riesling Wiltinger Gottesfuss Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs
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2021 Riesling Kanzemer Altenberg Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs
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2021 Riesling Scharzhofberger Grosses Gewächs
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2021 Riesling Rotschiefer Kabinett
Color: Sweet White
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2021 Riesling Wawerner Ritterpfad Kabinett
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2021 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett
Color: Sweet White
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2021 Riesling Ockfener Geisberg Kabinett
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