Van Volxem

Roman Niewodniczanski forges ahead along a stylistically independent and controversial path, employing a still expanding collection of historically important Saar acreage (particularly sites planted with ancient vines), and achieving distinctive and satisfying results with wines that are rich, full and leesy - not legally Trocken, yet seldom overtly sweet either. This summer, he was embroiled in a dispute with the V. d. P. over his identifying on the label the historically and geologically distinct sites within each of today's recognized vineyard demarcations. To Niewodniczanski, it is perfectly natural to associate the distinctive character of his wines with historically recognized terroirs, but the V. d. P. agenda is to simplify labeling, eliminating all but a few favored site designations, and certainly not re-authorizing names that were tossed out with the 1971 Wine Law. Unfortunately, I could not avoid visiting when the estate was bottling, and most wines were suffering on account of this, which explains my occasional silence concerning their aromas. That so many of these wines ultimately displayed formidable complexity, richness and length in spite of their state should be interpreted as high praise. (Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2002 Wiltinger Riesling, 2002 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling, 2002 Wiltinger Klosterberg Riesling, 2002 Scharzhofberger Riesling.

From Germany's Charming 2002 Vintage (Jan 2004) by David Schildknecht

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2002 Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling

Color: White

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2002 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben

Release Price: $83

Color: White

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2002 Riesling Saar

Release Price: $20

Color: White

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2002 Scharzhofberger Riesling Eiswein

Release Price: $393

Color: Sweet White

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2002 Wiltinger Klosterberg Millichberg Riesling

Color: White

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2002 Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling

Release Price: $31

Color: White

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2002 Wiltinger Schlangengraben Riesling

Color: White

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2002 Weissburgunder

Color: White

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2002 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling

Color: White

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2002 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling

Release Price: $43

Color: White

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