An unabashed enthusiast of elegant wines, Thierry Allemand told me that while he admires the 2015s for their concentration and power, it’s vintages like 2014 and, especially, 2016 that get him the most excited. “Great wines have detail, which is hard to achieve in hot years when the wines are ripe and also in years that feature serious structure, like 2010 or 2005,” he said. He added that his 2015s show greater freshness and elegance than, for example, his ‘09s and definitely his ‘03s, very ripe vintages that were short on balancing acidity, “making for big wines and not especially fine ones. The ‘15s will be energetic and will probably also age longer.” All that said, I guess I like Allemand’s ‘15s better than he appears to, as they avoid any superripe character and simply possess greater depth than any wines I’ve tasted here since the ‘09s, which are still far short of entering what I would consider to be their plane of peak drinkability.
From 2015 Northern Rhônes: Outstanding Wines for the Long Haul (Apr 2017) by Josh Raynolds
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