Sébastien Bobinet
Sébastien Bobinet is a very amiable young man with a noble cause. The estate is located in Beaulieu, a small village directly above the Loire, where his family has lived for eight generations. His grandfather, though, was the last in line to really make wine. When Sébastien came back about ten years ago, there was little more than a hectare of vines left, but he only started expanding about three years ago when his wife, Emeline Calvez, a sommelier, came down from Paris to join him. Today they have seven hectares, but very little wine in recent vintages. Both 2012 and 2013 were extremely small crops.
In their old cellars dug into the cliffs above the river, they do everything by hand. They were also certified organic for their work in the vineyards, but stopped paying their dues because the codes said nothing about being natural in the cellar. “It didn’t make any sense,” said Bobinet, shaking his head. “We don’t add anything other than the occasional sulfites when we think a wine is too fragile to survive without them.”
As their wines are often a touch reductive in their youth, Bobinet and Calvez have had problems with the local authorities who grant the appellation. I find them all very svelte and tender. They may not have the richness or depth of those of their better-known neighbors, but they are extremely drinkable in a natural style that has its own following. If orange wines were always this succulent, I would be much more likely to have them in my own cellar.
From Loire Valley Cabernet Franc (Dec 2014) by Joel B. Payne
2013 Saumur-Champigny Ruben
Release Price: $23
Color: Red
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2012 Saumur-Champigny Amatéüs Bobi
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Color: Red
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2011 Saumur-Champigny Ruben
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Color: Red
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