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Philipp Kuhn

Philipp Kuhn was a youngster when he took over his parental estate in Laumersheim in 1992. Kuhn’s father, also Philipp, had started bottling wine from his 6.5-hectare estate in 1954. Since then, Philipp jr. has expanded the holdings to 46 hectares, split half into white and red grape varieties with a focus on Riesling and Pinot Noir, the wines with which he had made his name. But he also grows Pinots Gris and Blanc, Chardonnay, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Viognier. It was Philipp jr. who persuaded his father to grub up a vineyard of Huxelrebe – one of the German crossings so popular in the 1970s because they clocked up so much sugar – in the Laumersheimer Kirschgarten and plant it to Pinot Noir in 1988, when he was just 16 years old. His vineyards are in Laumersheim, Grosskarlbach and Dirmstein with some plots further afield in the Kallstadter Saumagen and the Zeller Schwarzer Herrgott. Kuhn’s Rieslings are fermented spontaneously and aged in stainless steel, which accentuates the cooler limestone and calcareous nature of these sites, makes them taut and, in their youth, almost austere – they are always bone dry. His Pinot Noirs are fermented with small proportions of whole-bunch and are meaty and smoky despite their fine structure. The estate is currently in the second year of conversion to organic certification. During my visit, I tasted a selection of the 2022 Rieslings, along with some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

From 2022 Rheingau, Pfalz and Mittelrhein: Before, During and After the Rain (Dec 2023) by Anne Krebiehl MW

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2021 Chardonnay Réserve

Color: White

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