Lehrner preaches a gospel of moderation-missionary work that could no doubt save many a Burgenland red from perdition. He harvested earlier in 2003 than in any previous vintage, and in his vinification strove not to encourage the fruit of this exceptional vintage in its tendency toward exaggeration. Had there just been a bit of rain in June or July, says Lehrner, the vintage would have been "shamelessly good. " Lehrner's most expensive cuvee-Paulus, a blend of blaufrankisch, zweigelt and cabernet done in largely new barrels-leaves me unconvinced, and he says his older cabernet vines will eventually be replaced with more blaufrankisch. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2003 Claus.
From Austria's Surprising 2003s (Nov 2004) by David Schildknecht
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