Paul Gros
"Anne Gros was busy bottling her wines in Minervois when I visited the winery in Vosne-Romanée. So, her son, Paul, guided me through their portfolio augmented with cuvées from expired contracts belonging to Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur last year. These include not only Grands-Echézeaux, but also four wines now made under Paul’s own label.
“We did some green harvesting in 2023 as we did in 2022,” he tells me in the winery, surrounded by stainless steel vats. “Alcohol levels increased by a degree a week before the harvest. That was difficult, especially for vineyards such as Grands-Echézeaux, as we are still getting familiar with that vineyard. We started to pick on September 7, and five days later we had rain. We have a sorting table to eradicate the bad parts of any stems [so that the healthy stems could be added to the blend], but this was taking too much time, so they were only added to the Echézeaux.” Interestingly, exchanging conversation with Paul, he has a different approach to Anne Gros. He would like to utilize more stems, whereas she has always abided by Henri Jayer’s philosophy of complete destemming. Not to say one is right and one is wrong—it depends on the growing season and how they are used in each cuvée, but perhaps as Paul takes a bigger role, we might see a slightly revised approach? "
From The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025) by Neal Martin
2023 Bourgogne La Croix d'Argent
Color: Red
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2023 Echézeaux Grand Cru
Color: Red
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2023 Vosne-Romanée Aux Communes
Color: Red
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2022 Côteaux Bourguignon Rouge
Color: Red
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