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René Muré - Clos Saint Landelin

Two thousand six was especially difficult here, as it was at a number of estates located south of Colmar, where by many accounts precipitation in early September was heavier and more ill-timed than it was farther north. Mure sold off a lot of his production and told me he bottled just four wines. "The pinot noir was good because we picked it before the rain, and we had some SGN because some of the bad rot turned into good rot, but that was about it for the successes." Like a number of his colleagues in Alsace, Mure compared the 2007s to the 2001s: "Except for the pinot noir, the wines have finesse and body. They're not exotic or exuberant." One change here: with 2007 Mure is practicing quicker fermentations and shorter aging of the wines on their lees in an attempt to avoid malolactic fermentation and maintain freshness. As recently as 2005, most of these wines went through their secondary fermentations, but none of the 2007s did. "At a time of global warming, our work is to retain fresh aromas," Mure summarized, but he and daughter Veronique clearly wondered how their long-time clients would respond to the new no-malo style. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.) Also recommended: 2006 Muscat Clos St. Landelin VT (86), 2006 Pinot Noir "V" (85).

From Alsace 2007 and 2006 (Nov 2008) by Stephen Tanzer

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2007 Pinot Gris Clos St. Landelin Selection de Grains Nobles

Color: Sweet White

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