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Maximin Grünhaus - von Schubert

Carl von Schubert’s vineyards were spared the peronospora that afflicted so much of the Greater Mosel in 2016, and ended up bringing in a healthy and relatively large crop, under the almost leisurely conditions that are typical of this vintage. Even picking of the Pinots did not start until the end of September, and while Riesling harvest began October 10, it didn’t finish until early November (with frozen grapes picked November 30). There was no problem with acidity here: levels in the finished wines are analytically among the highest I encountered from the vintage (often approaching 10 grams), but entirely positive in effect. I had hoped that the relatively modest must weights characteristic of 2016 generally might be used as an opportunity to offer at least one or two genuinely lightweight bottlings reminiscent of trocken and halbtrocken Grünhaus bottlings of the early 1990s and before. But as I have mentioned in past assessments of this estate’s recent evolution, it’s possible that such wines are simply no longer in the cards climatically from these sites; and, even if they are, most of von Schubert’s Riesling-drinking countrymen (who still represent his largest market) are looking for more body and weight. That said, the four top dry-tasting bottlings – i.e., the two Grosse Gewächse and two “Superior” offerings – weigh in modestly between 11.25% and 12% in alcohol. As for the residually sweet Kabinetts and Spätlesen in the present collection – picked largely in late October – like their vintage 2015 counterparts, they approach the stellar quality that characterized this estate prior to the late 1990s. What’s more, the sweetness of those Kabinetts – despite their having finished with only 7.5% alcohol – is not the least bit extraneous.

In my introduction to coverage of the von Schubert 2015s, I offered an extensive account of changes in labeling and bottling attendant on the estate’s VDP membership. One significant change did not “stick.” From vintage 2015 there was a legally dry Riesling labeled “Herrenberg” – but not labeled trocken , which enabled it in theory to avoid VDP strictures on any legally dry vineyard-designated “competition” to a Grosses Gewächs from the same site. This year, that wine is gone, and the blend that was formerly known simply as Maximin Grünhaus Riesling has added the name “Monopol.” (There was a 2015 from purchased fruit nicknamed “Maxim” whose 2016 counterpart is “Maximin” but which I did not taste.) Apropos of label changes, I should mention for any who have not already seen it that the von Schubert label design, while retaining its traditional themes, including the familiar 19th-century depiction of the Grünhaus itself, has been rather startlingly “modernized” under the influence of young Maximin von Schubert, who is now directing things here alongside his father. (For further background on this estate, consult my introductions to coverage of its 2014 and 2015 collections, the latter replete with an account of stylistic evolution here over the past two decades.)

From Saar & Ruwer: Beauties Despite a Bumpy 2016 (Mar 2018) by David Schildknecht

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2015 Pinot NoirMaximin Grünhäuser

Release Price: $68

Color: Red

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Maximin Grünhaus - von Schubert

2015 Pinot NoirMaximin Grünhäuser

2016 Pinot Blanc Maximin Grünhäuser trocken

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Monopol A.P. #14

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Alte Reben A.P. #2

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Grosses Gewächs

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Grosses Gewächs

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Superior

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Superior

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Bruderberg Kabinett

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Kabinett

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Kabinett

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Kabinett Nr. 19

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Spätlese

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Spätlese

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Auslese Nr. 17

2016 Riesling Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Eiswein

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