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Maximin Grünhaus - von Schubert

In Stefan Kraml’s 11th vintage as cellarmaster of this iconic estate, he has in collaboration with proprietor Carl von Schubert succeeded in showcasing its excellent vineyards and largely surmounting a difficult 2014 growing season. The successes here also showcase a style of wine distinctively different from that which brought Maximin Grünhaus notoriety under longtime vineyard and cellar manager Alphonse Heinrich, but a style entirely satisfying and expressive.

Developing that style after Heinrich had essentially taken his techniques into retirement with him has been a nearly decade-long challenge, and the effort has been accompanied by paring down a portfolio that from the late '70s through the '90s included nearly every combination of site, Prädikat and sweetness level that the law and vintage allowed. Whether or not the sort of delicate, sharply etched wines that typified Grünhaus Kabinett or Spätlese (irrespective of sweetness or its absence) two and more decades ago is even possible under today's climatic conditions, the fact is that Grünhaus Rieslings are becoming not only riper but texturally richer and plusher, reflecting increased lees contact. And a move away from the pressure tanks that long remained an unusual feature of this cellar and toward smaller stainless steel or occasionally wooden fermentation vessels has diminished the influence of CO2 and the persistence of fermentative aromas as well as the degree of reductive tension that characterized wines under Heinrich’s regime.

In recent years, special emphasis has been placed on bottlings from Herrenberg and Abtsberg labeled "Superior" and finished legally halbtrocken. But one can anticipate a shift in marketing now that this estate has rejoined the VDP (nearly a century after it left that organization’s forerunner), with its emphasis on legally dry so-called Grosse Gewächse, of which Grünhaus will henceforth bottle one each from Abtsberg and Herrenberg.

Von Schubert held-off his 2014 harvest until the end of the first week in October. This decision brought with it the need for especially stringent selection and the particularly strong showing of this year’s collection at the dry end of the spectrum reflects rigorous removal of any rot-tinged or otherwise blemished fruit. It was decided to incorporate into this year’s Spätlesen what little botrytis-affected material had been picked with Auslese intentions.

From Rescuing Ruwer Riesling in 2014 ... and Beyond (Sep 2016) by David Schildknecht

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2014 Maximin Grünhaus Pinot Blanc Trocken

Release Price: $28

Color: White

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2014 Maximin Grünhaus Weissburgunder Trocken

Release Price: $32

Color: White

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2014 Maximin Grünhaus Riesling Trocken

Release Price: $22

Color: White

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2014 Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Trocken

Color: White

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2014 Maximin Grünhaus Pinot Blanc Trocken

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Weissburgunder Trocken

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Riesling Trocken

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Trocken

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling Trocken

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling Trocken Alte Reben

2014 Maximin Grünhauser Herrenberg Riesling Superior

2014 Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Superior

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Riesling Feinherb A.P. #19

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett

2014 Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese

2014 Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese

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