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Martin Müllen

“You had to wait this year,” observed Martin Müllen, who didn’t begin picking until mid-October and continued well into November. “In some instances,” he related, “that meant relatively low acidity,” by which he meant in an entirely respectable 8 gram range. (A single wine dipped significantly lower after undergoing malo.) But Müllen maintained that the 20 hours it takes to process most wines in his basket press, along with in some instances extra time on the lees, compensates for any potential lack of structure that might have been attributable to acid deficiency. In any case, I was not surprised to find this latest Müllen collection more than animatingly bright and juicy enough. Moreover, the sweet wines (though this was partly a function of moderated residual sugar) have never seemed to me better balanced, though, granted, there are no nobly sweet entries this year against which to judge Müllen’s evolution in that category. In sum, I found this as consistently fine and fascinating a Müllen collection as I’ve tasted so far. With the exception of two Letterlay Rieslings bottled in May (when most of the residually sweet Müllen Rieslings were also bottled), all of this year’s dry wines were bottled in August or September 2017. (Speaking of skin contact, Müllen rendered his inaugural Pinot Noir in 2016, but I’ll review it when it’s released alongside his 2017 whites. There is also a first-ever, sulfur-free Hühnerberg Spätlese trocken that had not yet been bottled when I last visited in mid-September 2017 and which I’ll review in another year. For more about Müllen, his vineyards and his distinctive methodology, consult the introductions to my accounts of his vintage 2014 and 2015 wines.)

From Mosel Riesling 2016 Part 1: From Extremes, Equilibrium (Jan 2018) by David Schildknecht

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2016 Riesling Kröver Paradies Kabinett trocken

Release Price: $22

Color: White

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Martin Müllen

2016 Riesling Kröver Paradies Kabinett trocken

2016 Riesling Trabener Würzgarten Kabinett ** trocken

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Kabinett* trocken

2016 Riesling trocken Revival

2016 Kröver Paradies Spätlese trocken

2016 Kröver Steffensberg Spätlese trocken

2016 Kröver Letterlay Spätlese* trocken

2016 Kröver Letterlay Spätlese** trocken

2016 Kröver Kirchlay Spätlese** trocken

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese trocken

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese * trocken

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese ** trocken

2015 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese ** trocken

2016 Kröver Paradies Kabinett feinherb

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Kabinett feinherb

2016 Riesling Kröver Paradies Spätlese feinherb

2016 Riesling Kröver Paradies Spätlese

2016 Riesling Kröver Kirchlay Spätlese

2016 Riesling Kröver Letterlay Spätlese **

2016 Riesling Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese

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