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M & S Ogier d'Ampuis

Stéphane Ogier, who represents the seventh generation of his family in Ampuis, said that the 2017s are “on the tight side, because of their tannins, especially for a hot year” and hopes that people won’t be in a rush to open them too soon. He thinks that his 2018s, which I also tasted, “will be ready to drink, for sure, sooner than the ‘17s,” which he believes will be showing their best sometime “between seven and 10 years old, but will last for longer.” He described 2017 as “a pretty serious vintage, with the depth to age. The same is true for 2019.” One major factor in the freshness of the 2018s, he added, is that “because it was a full crop, there isn’t super-concentration to the wines, so you see more finesse and detail.” A recent move that Ogier has decided to make will see the Côte-Rôtie Réserve being held back for release at a later date. “Maybe three more years, maybe five, depending on how it shows,” he told me. That’s on account of too many bottles getting opened and drunk up, “especially at restaurants,” well before the wine is showing its best. “If you want to drink one now, make it the Mon Village,” he said, adding that “it’s the reason there are two bottlings now (aside from the single-vineyard bottlings and the Belle Hélène), so that there’s one for now and one for later.” The 2017 La Belle Hélène hadn’t been bottled when I visited Ogier’s cellar on March 11, so that review will be included in our upcoming article on barrel tastings of 2019 and 2018 northern Rhône wines.

From Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020) by Josh Raynolds

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2017 Côte-Rôtie Bertholon

Release Price: $193

Color: Red

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