Lungarotti
Back in the '70s, practically the only decent Umbrian wine came from Lungarotti. New and exciting wineries have surfaced in Umbria in recent years, but Lungarotti is still a recognized quality leader and one of Italy's most important estates. Led by two sisters-the more laid-back and soft-spoken Maria Teresa (the first woman from Umbria to graduate with an enology degree) and the high-energy Chiara-Lungarotti's future and past go hand in hand. Examples of their innovative mindset include a project with the University of Perugia aimed at developing thermal energy from vine cuttings in an effort to gain energy self-sufficiency for the estate, and the attention paid to old local grapes such as canaiolo nero, a variety that almost everyone else around them (and in Tuscany as well) is ripping up. Recently, Chiara told me that she felt canaiolo nero is a much better partner for sangiovese than merlot or cabernet, which tend to take over in a blend. Interestingly, the Lungarotti sisters and their top-rate winemaking team manage to wring out character and quality from other lesser grape varieties such as grechetto and trebbiano as well. Also recommended: 2005 Rubesco Torgiano Rosso (85). Other wines tasted: 2004 Sagrantino di Montefalco.
From Ian D'Agata on the Best Wines of Central Italy (Jul 2009) by Ian D'Agata