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Ludwig Neumeyer, Inzersdorf

The softspoken Ludwig Neumeyer compares the high quality of '97 to that of '86, quickly noting that a lot has changed for the better in his vineyards and cellar since then. His partner and brother Karl, a Viennese businessman, is in the best sense Ludwig "promoter," eloquent in asserting that the estate can in time achieve results comparable to the best wines of the Wachau. Judging from this year amazing collection, I'm inclined to agree. Seeking the sweet but balanced spot on the ripening curve, particularly with gruner veltliner, the Neumeyers want to avoid too fat a wine; their '97s achieve grace and harmonious interplay of flavors. The functional but striking Neumeyer cellar, which the local zoning watchdogs nearly nixed, is in the great tradition of Adolf Loos. It's cleverly devised for maximum efficiency and flexibility, with minimal trauma to the fruit. Pressing, skin contact, yeasting, and other vital aspects of vinification are handled differently from one year and one cuvee to the next in the spirit of a grand experiment with nature. The first riesling was planted here only in 1985. One wonders how vine age and irrigation will improve quality. As it stands, water must be carried to the young vines "up to a hundred times in some years."

From Austria Awe-Inspiring Autumn of 1997 (Sep 1998) by David Schildknecht

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1997 Riesling Rothenbart

Color: White

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