Louis Michel & Fils
It had been far too long since I visited Lous Michel & Fils in the heart of Chablis ville. I tasted the 2022s with Guillaume Michel, who told me the Premier Crus will be bottled in October and the Grand Crus in May. "Everything here is aged in stainless steel," he explains. “I’m the laziest winemaker. We use natural yeast and spontaneous fermentations so that they can last for two or three months. The wines are then racked and fined using bentonite if necessary, which we have found in recent vintages because, for some reason, since 2018, there has been more protein in the wines. We keep the cellars cold in order to precipitate tartrates.” Later, there is an interesting discussion about using electric wires to protect the vines against frost.
Along with seven other winemakers, they have covered ten hectares in Montée de Tonnerre (1.8 hectares belonging to Louis Michel). He told us that this has been very effective, not least because it automatically switches on whenever temperatures drop to the pre-set degree. The benefits to the wine could be immediately gauged by comparing it to their other cuvées. However, Michel mentions that later on in the season the vines are more advanced, thus making them more susceptible to mildew that was threatening at that very moment. Another subject broached was vine disease, particularly court-noué. While the oldest vines appear to have accreted natural resistance, those planted in the 1970s and 1980s must be pulled up. "Clones are a thing of the past," he states. “Today, nearly all growers replant using sélection massale." All their 2022s are between 12.5% and 13.0% alcohol. Michel’s wines have impressed in blind tastings held at the BIVB in recent years, so I was glad to visit the winery. The 2022s continue a strong run of form, well-crafted Chablis from top to bottom, the Butteaux Vieilles Vignes certainly constituting one of the highlights.
From Where Art Thou Chablis? - Chablis 2021 & 2022 (Sep 2023) by Neal Martin
2022 Petit Chablis
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2022 Chablis Village
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2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Séchets 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Butteaux Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Forêts 1er Cru
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2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru
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2022 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru
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2022 Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru
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