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Lo Triolet

I am not sure there are too many more talented producers in all of Italy than Lo Triolet’s Marco Martin. What he has achieved with Pinot Grigio, when a majority of Italian wines carrying that name are uninteresting at best and a joke at worst, is nothing short of admirable. But the wines he makes with Gewürztraminer, Gamay, Pinot Noir (Valle d’Aosta’s best), Syrah and Fumin are also mostly exceptional. Beginning with 2018, this estate has also started to make a Petite Arvine wine (from vineyards in Nus, Sarre and Villeneuve planted at 550–650 meters above sea level). It’s not yet at the level of the estate’s other wines, but it is promising. However, it’s the three different Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio) wines made by the estate that you don’t want to miss: the unoaked one, easily Italy’s best, and first made in 1993; the oaked version (called “Elevée en barriques”), first made in 1999; and the Mistigri, a lusciously sweet air-dried Pinot Grigio, first made in 2004 and one of Italy’s top twenty or so sweet wines.

From Valle d’Aosta: Micro Productions, Mega Quality (Jan 2020) by Ian D'Agata

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2018 Pinot Gris

Release Price: $29

Color: White

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