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Lionel Faury

Lionel Faury told me that he has been making a very conscious move away from overworking his wines, and that he has become especially leery of battonage for his whites. "The potential for richness in the wines is already there almost every year except for ones like 2008, and there's no need to try to extract even more." He points to his own 2006s, which he describes as "too heavy," as examples where lees stirring only served to gild the lily. "Now, I might do a little stirring at the very end of the fermentations and that's it." Faury, who uses a very healthy dose of roussanne in his white Saint Joseph, cautions that "you have to be careful when using roussanne because it can easily make a wine too heavy. But when it's in balance against the natural brightness of marsanne you get the best qualities of each variety coming through in the wine." To show the difference between the rich '09 and livelier '10 vintage, Lionel poured his 2009 whites next to their 2010 siblings. The older Saint Joseph is a fleshy, smooth and exotic wine that is ready to drink, while the approachable but still-young '09 Condrieu shows a suave blend of richness and energy, with good finishing clarity.

From 2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012) by Josh Raynolds

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2010 Condrieu

Color: White

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