Le Vieux Donjon
Claire Michel describes the 2012 vintage as one that will provide "a lot of immediate appeal, with fresh fruit that might make people suspect that the wines must be drunk young," but she thinks that their balance will imbue them with surprising ageworthiness.Like a number of her colleagues she points to the overall success of the 1999s, "which lived in the shadow of the 1998s, especially, but which are now proving to be even better for aging than the '98s."I've heard rumblings among old- time Chateauneuf lovers that there's been too much of a turn to modernity here in recent years, and if by modernity one means cleanliness, then I suppose that the Michel family is guilty.Recent bottles of the 2008, 2006 and 2004 have displayed the kind of classic, garrigue-driven character (so does the 2011 here, in fact) that I would think lovers of old-school Chateauneuf would love.I wonder if those consumers are engaging in guilt by association owing to the estate's relationship with enologist Philippe Cambie, whose work is wildly misunderstood by many Rhone aficionados who believe that all of the wineries with which he works make a single style of wine--all evidence to the contrary.If the Vieux Donjon wines are cleaner today, they have lost none of their classic appeal.
From 2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014) by Josh Raynolds
2011 Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Release Price: $66
Color: Red
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2012 Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Color: Red
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