Latour's 2015s are fascinating, as they catch the château at an especially delicate transition to biodynamic farming. In 2015, the 47 hectares in L'Enclos (where the Grand Vin is sourced) were farmed biodynamically, while the rest of the château's vineyards are all being farmed biodynamically for the first time in 2016. One of the results of biodynamic farming is frequently a more even and inline maturation of physical and alcoholic ripeness, along with overall ripeness that tends to happen earlier. That has massive implications for other choices that happen later, such as the choices of yeasts that are employed in fermentation, so it will be interesting to see what happens. One thing is very clear, though. The Latour wines this year are divided into two camps. The Pauillac and Forts de Latour are more or less inline with the house style, while the Grand Vin is, quite different in style for what is the norm with young wines here. Specifically, the tannins are remarkably finessed, as is the wine itself. That leads to the inevitable question: Will the style of Château Latour change meaningfully with the move to biodynamics? Of course, one vintage means nothing. It will be years, maybe decades, before we have some answers. But there is plenty to think about, that much is obvious. As has been the case since the 2012 vintage, the 2015s will be sold as bottled wines when the château decides the wines are ready to drink, rather than en primeur. Winemaker Helene Genin reported that harvest started on September 15 with the Merlots, which were picked on the early side to retain freshness, while she felt the Cabernets benefitted from being picked a bit on the later side, in relative terms.
From 2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story... (Feb 2018) by Antonio Galloni
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