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Kerloo Cellars

Ryan Crane, whose winery/tasting room/party space is located in the SoDo district of Seattle, has vinified with a substantial percentage of whole clusters since 2008 but as of 2012 has gone to 100% for his Syrahs. He believes that vendange entier “gives life and texture to Syrah,” noting that he wants to make “wines with a soul. Wines made with stems may be tighter early but they have more energy and they blossom in the bottle.”

Crane told me that the 2014 harvest was earlier than that of the previous year. “The temperatures got hot fast in 2014, and there were more heat spikes.” He went on: “In 2013, the vineyards could develop at their own speed. But in 2014, the sugars developed quickly but the flavors weren’t even close.” Since acidity levels in the grapes were low early on in 2014, the vintage produced higher-pH wines that Crane described as “wines on steroids.”

In my tasting this summer, it was Crane's white wines from vintage 2015 that stood out, especially in light of the heat of the year. Annual production here is now in the 3,000-case range.

From Focus on Washington: Hot Times in the Desert (Nov 2016) by Stephen Tanzer

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2015 Sauvignon Blanc Boushey Vineyard

Release Price: $24

Color: White

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