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Jurtschitsch

Alwin and Stefanie Jurtschitsch – who have in previous vintages developed a penchant for early harvest – were hard at it by mid-September 2015. “We began with the intention of just harvesting from young vines,” related Alwin Jurtschitsch, “but once we began measuring musts, we realized that we needed to swing into full harvest mode.” While they expressed delight with the growing season – understandably, given the results – the Jurtschitsches report that it was a challenge to achieve the optimum aggregate of ripe but not overripe flavor and animating acidity while not risking excessive alcohol. The upshot, in their estimation, was that the window was not really very wide for getting each vineyard picked optimally, some Grüner Veltliner having demanded urgent attention soon after the middle of September while some Riesling was only ready in the nick of time to avoid mid-October rain. “It was like a chess game trying to choose the right moves and pick with precision,” summed up Jurtschitsch. Finishing on October 13 allowed the grapes to escape any botrytis. Jurtschitsch compared the results with those of 2011 and 2012, adding, however, that he was especially surprised at how much acidity Riesling retained, which would contrast with the situation in either of those earlier vintages, and even more surprised at how lively the wines taste even in those instances where, especially after malolactic conversion and significant tartrate precipitation, total acidity is analytically quite modest. “I’ve never in my admittedly short career,” reported Jurtschitsch, “witnessed such a dramatic discrepancy between measurable acidity and the impression of acidity.” Except for the perimeters of the Jurtschitsches’ most austere terraces, they reported that their vines experienced no significant stress, a tribute to vineyard management of which Alwin Jurtschitsch is especially proud, given that he has installed cut-off valves to insure that he does not receive the communal ration of irrigation and can instead dry-farm. As at other estates afflicted by the May hail, yields were impacted but ultimately not dramatically, although Jurtschitsch points out that the aftermath of that storm was especially challenging for them as organic growers because they really needed to administer treatments to all of the affected parcels simultaneously, which was naturally impossible. In view of conditions in several recent vintages, especially 2016, the Jurtschitsches are among an increasing number of organic growers expressing concern about recent limitations on permissible treatments and the consequent enhanced demand for toxic copper-sulfite in order to keep fungal infections at bay. When I last visited the Jurtschitsches to taste, most of their 2015s were waiting on imminent midsummer 2016 bottling, which would be a bit ahead of schedule for some wines, prompted by the need to undertake a significant cellar renovation in the small window available before the 2016 harvest. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introductions to my reports on their 2013s and 2014s.)

From Austria’s 2015 Rieslings & Grüner Veltliners: Ripe & Ready (Feb 2017) by David Schildknecht

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2010 Brut Nature Grosse Reserve

Release Price: $34

Color: Sparkling White

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Jurtschitsch

2010 Brut Nature Grosse Reserve

2015 Grüner Veltliner Loess

2015 Grüner Veltliner Stein

2015 Grüner Veltliner Loiserberg

2015 Grüner Veltliner Dechant Alte Reben

2015 Grüner Veltliner Schenkenbichl

2015 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg

2015 Grüner Veltliner Lamm

2014 Grüner Veltliner Pot des Fleurs

2014 Grüner Veltliner Freier Loiser

2015 Riesling Platin

2015 Riesling Loiserberg

2015 Riesling Heiligenstein

2015 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben

2015 Weissburgunder Terrassen

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