Jean Fournier
Laurent Fournier is one of the most hyperactive winemakers I know. He is brimming over with energy and ideas and his wines are testament to his enthusiasm, full of life, vivid and vivacious. Fournier is always thinking outside the box. Consider the thinking behind cuvées such as “Pur Pôt” or “P’tite Grumotte” (see tasting notes.) I tasted his full range of 2019s that has expanded courtesy of new négoce Jean Fournier labels, including forays into Clos Vougeot and Corton-Rognet. “We started the picking on 16 or 17 September. The yields for the whites were very low, 35hl/ha for the Aligoté and 30hl/ha for the Chardonnay,” Fournier told me. “We have stopped making a millefeuille for the whole bunch [i.e. layered stemmed and de-stemmed bunches] and we just use the stems in the bottom part of the vat. We use 50% whole bunches and are gradually moving more towards demi-muids in order to undertake a longer élevage. For the Aligoté, I like the wines to mature for one year in barrel and then six months in tank, just like the Marsannay Blanc. After five years of trials I have changed to using Diam for the whites.” Fournier might not enjoy the profile of fellow Marsannay resident Sylvain Pataille, nor does he own any Grand Cru vineyards like Bruno Clair. But what he does own is exploited to their full potential through almost monomaniacal vineyard work and his indefatigable nature. There were occasions where I felt that some of the wines flirt with over-ripeness and he might have unpacked the secateurs a day or two late. But overall Fournier’s 2019s are jam-packed with flavour and intensity without compromising terroir expression. He seems perfectly at home with both whites and reds, Chardonnay or Aligoté. Rich pickings and great value are to be found here.
From La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020) by Neal Martin
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru
Color: Red
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2019 Corton-Reignets Grand Cru
Color: Red
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2019 Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru
Color: Red
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