Bruce’s Birthday Bash, Part 2: Dinner

[Grissini](http://www.grissinirestaurant.com/)

484 Sylvan Avenue

Englewood Cliffs,

New Jersey 07632

201-568-3535

This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.

Three Champagnes from **Philipponnat** were all superb. The **1964 The Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2003)** presented a more high-toned, floral personality than the 1966 that followed, with a relatively delicate, understated personality. The **1966 Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2000)** was insanely beautiful, with an inner core of perfumed fruit and pretty notes of toffee and spices that added complexity. The **1990 Clos des Goisses** was beautifully polished if somewhat reticent. White pepper, apricots and flowers lingered on the classy, elegant finish. Clos des Goisses remains surprisingly under the radar considering the exceptional quality of what is in the glass.

An assortment of **Dom Pérignons** was no less impressive. The **1964 Dom Pérignon** was hauntingly beautiful as it revealed incredible purity and freshness, with gorgeous hazelnuts, ash and smoke that lingered on the sublime finish. This remains one of my very favorite pre-1970s vintages of DP. The **1988 Dom Pérignon** , tasted from magnum, showed of pretty layers of fruit with lovely fragrance and compact yet utterly refined personality. The **1995 Dom Pérignon (from jeroboam)** was profound. In 1995 the jeroboams were disgorged a little later than the 750s, so in this format the wine is in reality very close to the Œnothèque bottling. A sensual, sumptuous Champagne, the **1995 Dom Pérignon** exploded onto the palate with a full-throttle expression of dense, ripe fruit. This was a remarkable bottle in every way. Readers lucky enough to own the 1995 Dom Pérignon in jeroboam are in for a thrilling ride!

We then moved into a series of insanely beautiful Champagnes from **Krug**. The **1996 Vintage** was staggering in its richness, depth and sheer density. It was every bit the monumental Champagne its reputation suggests. The **1990 Vintage** , tasted from **magnum** , was remarkable for its opulent and exuberant personality and incredible finesse. The **1964 Collection** was fully resolved. Though quite pretty, the wine was probably better a few years ago, as it seemed to lack focus and definition. The 1969 Collection showed off exotic nuances of smoke, passion fruit and spices in an understated, hushed style for Krug. The **1979 Collection** was explosive, rich and layered, with a kaleidoscopic array of aromas and flavors, and long, exceptionally pure finish. It was pure magic. Sadly, the **1979 Clos du Mesnil** was corked, which was a shame as 1979 is one of my favorite Krug vintages. The **1985 Clos du Mesnil** made up for it, though. Ash, butter and smoke are some of the notes that emerged from this finely chiseled, taut wine. The **1985 Clos de Mesnil** was drop-dead gorgeous. The **1995 Clos du Mesnil** was simply awesome. A sweet, layered bouquet melded into a core of pure fruit that was a beauty to behold. A powerful Clos de Mesnil, the 1995 came across as a superb white Burgundy with bubbles. This bottle in particular was one of the finest – perhaps the finest – I have ever tasted. The **1996 Clos du Mesnil** was a bit shy on this night. Still, it gradually emerged to reveal a finely-knit fabric of profound elegance. This fine, sculpted Champagne remains one of the most exquisite wines made in this historic vintage.

**Food:**

Black truffle fettuccine

Lobster risotto

Seared tuna loin

Grilled vegetables

**Wine:**

| 

1964 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2000)

 | 

92

 |
| 

1966 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses (magnum, disgorged 2003)

 | 

94

 |
| 

1990 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

 | 

94

 |
| 

1964 Dom Pérignon

 | 

96

 |
| 

1988 Dom Pérignon (magnum)

 | 

94

 |
| 

1995 Dom Pérignon (jeroboam)

 | 

96

 |
| 

1996 Krug Vintage

 | 

98

 |
| 

1990 Krug Vintage

 | 

94

 |
| 

1964 Krug Collection

 | 

90

 |
| 

1969 Krug Collection

 | 

91

 |
| 

1979 Krug Collection

 | 

96

 |
| 

1979 Krug Clos du Mesnil

 | 

?

 |
| 

1985 Krug Clos du Mesnil

 | 

96

 |
| 

1995 Krug Clos du Mesnil

 | 

94

 |
| 

1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil

 | 

99

 |
| 

1989 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

 | 

94

 |
| 

1990 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (magnum)

 | 

94

 |
| 

1996 Billecart-Salmon Clos Sainte-Hilaire

 | 

96

 |
| 

1990 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart

 | 

94

 |
| 

1999 Jacques Selosse Brut

 | 

97

 |
| 

1928 Pommery (magnum)

 | 

92

 |
| 

1926 Bollinger (jeroboam)

 | 

?

 |
| 

1989 Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury Meursault Rougeots

 | 

94

 |
| 

1945 Lafleur (magnum)

 | 

?

 |
| 

1955 Lafleur (magnum)

 | 

92

 |
| 

1929 Rausan-Ségla (magnum)

 | 

93

 |
| 

1969 Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de La Roche

 | 

92

 |
| 

1961 La Mission Haut-Brion

 | 

98

 |
| 

1962 Vega-Sicilia Único (magnum)

 | 

96

 |
| 

1961 Pétrus (magnum)

 | 

95

 |
| 

1996 Palmer (magnum)

 | 

94

 |
| 

1985 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (magnum)

 | 

94

 |
| 

1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (magnum)

 | 

96

 |
 

_[Photo and credit: Grissini, New Jersey]_

--Antonio Galloni



Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2009, Part 2

Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2009, Part 2 (Jul 2009)

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