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Andreas and Maria Harm had only bottled one of their 2015s when I last visited them in June 2016, consistent with their preference not only for leisurely élevage but also for late release. The Harm harvest, on the other hand, tends to be early. So it isn’t surprising that in 2015 it began in late September, and despite having holdings across a wide range of altitudes and exposures in Kremstal and Wachau sites on both sides of the Danube, their last grapes to get picked, Riesling from the Bruck vineyard along the Spitzerbach, came in less than five weeks later. Apropos of Bruck Riesling, it is that wine for which, to their own surprise, the Harms elected this vintage to employ the first cask to enter their cellar, a new 2,000-liter Ybbstal oak oval from Stockinger. “Ordinarily,” explained Maria Harm, “we would have seasoned a new cask by fermenting in it must destined for blending into one of our higher-volume cuvées.” To say that no harm was done would be an understatement, and we can now feel confident in the future as a significant share of casks gradually infiltrates this estate. At the time of my visit, the Harms’ 2015 Kellerberg Riesling was not in a condition that permitted assessment, so, with keen anticipation, I’ll report on that wine alongside coverage of their 2016s. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introduction I wrote as part of my report focused on Austria’s Rieslings and Grüner Veltliner of vintage 2013.)

From Austria’s 2015 Rieslings & Grüner Veltliners: Ripe & Ready (Feb 2017) by David Schildknecht

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2015 Grüner Veltliner FIO

Color: White

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