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Andreas and Maria Harm’s wines, as I effused in my previous report, came as a revelation to me. Only from vintage 2014 did I get chance to taste a full range of their offerings from geographically and geologically disparate sites strung out along both sides of the Danube in the Wachau and Kremstal regions, all of them assembled (via long-term leases) in the course of just five years. Picking in Mautern sites, for the Harms’ lightest Grüner Veltliner, began in late September, and some fruit from above Stein was picked in early October. “It was mid-October before botrytis really got going,” observes Andreas Harm, citing an advantage of that harvest schedule. Yet when the Harms sat down to taste with me on September 23, 2015, they were already finishing up in both of those sectors even though botrytis pressure was clearly likely to remain minimal. Like the Nikolaihof, Lesehof Stagård and Lang (all perhaps not coincidentally with neighboring vineyards and two with neighboring cellars) as well as Veyder-Malberg and Muthenthaler in the Spitzer Graben, this estate is demonstrating that early harvest to promote alcoholic levity need not mean sacrificing ripe, nuanced and complex flavors.

From Austria 2014: A Catastrophe? Not Qualitatively! (Feb 2016) by David Schildknecht

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2014 Grüner Veltliner FIO

Color: White

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